Tag Archives: Lager

Franconia: Unsung Destination for Real Beer Enthusiasts

Although Belgium would certainly top most people’s list of most interesting beer destination in Europe, the German beer loving region of Franconia (in northern Bavaria) provides stiff competition.

Currently there are over 300 breweries and brewpubs in the region, creating styles of beer not seen anywhere else in the world.  On a trip to Franconia in November of 2009, I experienced first hand this relatively unknown kingdom of artisanal beer culture.

Germany, and specifically Bavaria is famous for its beer.  Sadly, a lot of what gets transported to the United States is a heat damaged, dusty, pasteurized version of what is enjoyed there.  More importantly perhaps, its hard to gain an understanding of German beer culture without the proper setting; a cozy Gasthaus or tavern or a beer garden surrounded by oak trees filled with the happy energy of a beer loving culture.  Franconia leads the German regions for number of breweries per capita and per square kilometer, and the majority of the beer made in the area is for local consumption. There is really no better place to go for beer made locally for the locals!

Home not only to a stunning number of breweries, beer halls, beer gardens and beer guest houses (a recent German language guide listed 631 total), Franconia can also lay claim to having the widest array of beer styles in Germany, from the sublime cask conditioned Ungespundet Lager, to the robust, bacony Rauchbier, to the king of dark malty lagers, the Eisbock and many more in between.

Courtyard of the Bamberg Cathedral on a gray November day.

The city of Bamberg, nestled in the heart of Franconia is the capital of Franconian beer culture.  Home to nine breweries, and Weyermann Malt, the world’s leading producer of specialty beer malt, Bamberg literally lives and breathes beer.  Not that beer is the reason most tourists visit this city.  On the UNESCO world heritage site, Bamberg is a stunningly beautiful city with a massive Romanesque cathedral perched upon one of the seven hills that make up the town.

One might easily spend several blissful days touring the winding streets of the old city, peering in to the beautiful churches and wandering along the mossy banked waterways of the city without realizing they are in the heart of beer country.  Luckily or unluckily depending on how you look at it,  I was able to avoid the charms of the city and focus on the beer for two reasons:

#1  My trip fell in the middle of November and it was cold, wet and gray. (I would highly recommend a late spring or summer visit although the city will be swarming with tourists)

#2  I came armed with a guide an indispensable guide to Franconian beer culture, “The Beer Drinkers Guide to Bamberg”, by Fred Waltman, who also curates an online guide to Franconian beer culture.  Available online as a pdf for a nominal fee, I wouldn’t visit Bamberg without it.

Even if you were to somehow lose the guide however after a few too many pints of Schlenkerla, the people of Bamberg would be more than happy to give you tips on where to go and what to drink.  Speaking to the natives in German or English (no problem finding English speakers in Germany of course!) you will get to the heart of the Franconian culture and that wonderful feeling of gemütlichkeit.

Come try a nice smokey beer at Schlenkerla!

I visited probably a dozen more brew pubs than the average tourist interested in things non-beer might want to see, but my must-see favorites are listed below.

Brauereiaushank Schlenkerla  A trip to Bamberg would not be complete without visiting the most famous producer of Rauchbier, Aecht Schlenkerla.  Schlenkerla has been run by same family since 1877, although the tavern in the heart of the city has been serving beer 1405.  In their brewery just a few kilometers away Schlenkerla produces a several styles of smoked lager including their flagship beer a  Märzen. Enjoy a glass of the amber colored smokey stuff with some locally made liverwurst or an order of “beer cheese” and dark bread. Dominikanerstrasse 6, 96052 Bamberg, open daily

Mahr’s Bräu  Just a few doors down from Brauerei Keesmann is the cozy Mahr’s Gausthaus.  Built in 1670, it wooden benches, soft lighting and warm stove invite one to stay and chat with the old timers over their signature brew, an unfiltered lager simply called “U” (pronounced “ew”), short for Ungespundes Lager. Absolutely a must.  If you visit Bamberg in the right season, you should also sample their Helles Bock, which is deceptively smooth and delicious for over 6% abv. Wunderburg 10, 96050 Bamberg, open daily

Brauerei Keesmann I was particularly interested to try the beer from Brauerei Keesmann, as it is not available in the United States.  I arrived around lunch time and sat at one of the communal tables  next to several older gentleman and woman, who turned out to be Mrs. Keesmann!  She recommended their Pilsner, which was fantastic, especially with a hearty platter of traditional Franconian cold cuts and cheeses. Wunderburg 5, 96050 Bamberg, closed Sundays

Spezial Keller  Spezial is another brewery specializing in smoked beers, although they also make a wonderful Ungespundes Lager that is not smoked.  While their brewpub is cozy, dark and traditionally Franconian, I would recommend their beer “cellar”, which sits upon the top of a hill north of the old town, providing a beautiful outlook down onto the city.  The term beer cellar in Franconia might be confusing to tourists who picture a subterranean cave. Anywhere else in Germany, a Franconian beer cellar would be a beer garden, so picture trees, open air, sunlight and fresh beer. Oberer Stephansberg 47, 96049 Bamberg, closed Mondays

A beer focused trip to Bamberg would not be complete without hitting the open road (or bicycle path as it were) and visiting a Franconia Gasthaus or three.  There are literally dozens of small village breweries within easy biking distance of Bamberg all connected by immaculately maintained and sign-posted bicycle paths.

One place I found had particularly good beer was in the village of Buttenheim, just an hour south of Bamberg by bicycle.  Visit Löwenbräu (Marktstraβe 8, 96155 Buttenheim) for a taste of a traditional Franconian country guest house.  Fresh beer brewed literally next door, paired with hearty, rustic fare.

Enjoy fresh, country lagers at the cozy Lowenbrau tavern.

Ungespundet Lager

While we are lucky in America to have access to a wide range of amazing beers, Ungespundet Lager is difficult to find.  Simply translated,  ungespundet means “not plugged”, which refers to the unique method imployed in condtioning this style of beer.  Typically the cask in which the new beer is racked into to condition is stoppered with a bung or spund in german which allows carbon dioxide to build inside the cask.  By keeping the cask unplugged, this special lager remains only lightly carbonated (think English Real Cask Ale) and develops an amazing complexity of flavor.  A few shades darker than a Pilsner and around 5% abv, a good Ungespundet will fool you into thinking your drinking an ale with its round full flavor, slight sweetness and delicate effervescence.  This is one of the session beers of Franconia, a delightful easy drinking beverage that harkens back to the pre-pilsner time when beer was served in ceramic steins. This is the kind of beer that will go with pretty much everything but its best with food that is not overly spicy or intense.  If possible, search it out on draft at a good bar or go directly to the source: Bamberg, Germany.


A world class Ungespundet Lager to try:  Mahr’s Ungespundet




True Pilsner is soft, fragrant and complex and is often described as “naked” by brewers meaning that the primary ingredients malt, hops, yeast and water are on display in this lighter refreshing style of beer. When the very first clear, golden lager was brewed in the Bohemian town of Pilsen in 1842, beer drinkers the world over were immediately enchanted. The Germans quickly proved to be the most passionate devotees of the new style. Towns across the land began brewing their own “Pilsner” beers, and the name of the style was soon shortened to the friendlier “Pils.” The German touch was to make the beer a bit lighter in body – better for everyday drinking – and to add an extra dose of hops for a refreshingly bitter zing. In Germany today, Pils is by far the most popular beer style, and every region has at least one brand to call its own. Pils brewed in southern Germany generally has a sweeter, maltier taste, while Pils brewed in the north tends toward a hoppier bitterness.

A world class German-Style Pilsner to try: Stoudt’s Pils

A world class Czech-Style Pilsner to try: Moonlight Brewing Company Reality Czeck